Just a few miles up the River Dart from the coast lies one of the most characterful towns in the whole of Devon. Totnes is famous for its independent spirit, its wealth of historic buildings, its Norman castle and a main street packed with quirky shops, galleries and cafes. It is the kind of place that surprises and delights first-time visitors, and getting there from Paignton can be an adventure in itself. Here is your guide to Totnes and the best ways to reach it.
A town like no other
Totnes has a reputation as one of Britain’s most alternative and creative towns, and it wears that reputation with pride. The historic main street climbs gently up the hill, lined with a remarkable concentration of independent shops — you will find very few chain stores here. Instead there are artisan food shops, bookshops, galleries, vintage and craft shops, wholefood stores and an abundance of cafes. The town has long attracted artists, makers and free-thinkers, and that creative energy gives it a distinctive, friendly buzz that is quite unlike anywhere else in the area.
History at every turn
Beneath the modern bohemian character lies a town of deep history. Totnes is one of the oldest boroughs in England, and its long story is written into its buildings. The Norman castle, with its classic motte-and-bailey design, sits at the top of the town and rewards the climb with fine views over the rooftops and the Dart valley. The main street is lined with Elizabethan and Tudor merchants’ houses, including the striking East Gate arch that spans the road, and the Guildhall and parish church add to the sense of stepping back through the centuries. History lovers will find plenty to explore.
The market and local food
Totnes is a foodie’s delight, reflecting the rich agricultural land of the South Hams that surrounds it. The town is known for its markets — including regular general and artisan markets — where you can browse local produce, crafts, antiques and street food. The independent food shops, delis and bakeries are excellent, and there are plenty of cafes and restaurants championing local and seasonal ingredients. It is a wonderful place to stock up on Devon treats to take back to your self-catering kitchen, or simply to enjoy a leisurely lunch.
The most magical way to arrive: by steam and river
While you can drive to Totnes easily enough, the most memorable way to reach it from Paignton is as part of the famous Round Robin trip. Take the steam railway along the coast to Kingswear, cross the river to Dartmouth by ferry, and then cruise up the beautiful River Dart to Totnes, winding between wooded banks past Greenway and grand riverside houses. Arriving at Totnes by boat, having travelled by steam train and ferry, makes for one of the best days out in South Devon — and you can return by bus to complete the circle. Because the river cruise is tidal, sailing times vary, so check the timetable when planning your day.
Riverside walks and the Dart
The River Dart is central to the character of Totnes, and the riverside is a lovely place to stroll. You can watch the boats, enjoy a drink at a waterside pub, and soak up the gentle pace of life on the water. For walkers, there are paths along the river and into the surrounding countryside of the South Hams, one of the most beautiful and unspoilt corners of Devon, with rolling hills, hidden villages and a patchwork of fields running down to the sea.
Exploring the wider South Hams
Totnes makes a natural gateway to the South Hams, the lovely district that stretches south towards the coast. With your own transport you can explore pretty villages, country pubs, beautiful beaches and the dramatic estuary scenery of the Dart and beyond. It is an area that rewards unhurried exploration, full of the quiet, timeless Devon countryside that visitors fall in love with.
Totnes Castle and the town’s landmarks
Crowning the town, Totnes Castle is one of the best-preserved Norman motte-and-bailey castles in the country, its round stone keep sitting atop a steep grassy mound. The climb is rewarded with sweeping views over the rooftops and out across the Dart valley, and it is an atmospheric spot to take in the lie of the land. Down in the town, look out for the East Gate, the arch that straddles the main street, the historic Guildhall, and the fine parish church of St Mary. Together they tell the story of a town that has been important since Norman times and prosperous through the wool and river trades.
Markets and festivals
Totnes has a strong tradition of markets and community events that are well worth timing a visit around. Regular markets bring stalls of local food, crafts, antiques and vintage finds to the town, and there are seasonal festivals celebrating everything from food and music to the town’s creative spirit. The famous Elizabethan market days, when stallholders dress in period costume, are a particular treat in season. Whenever you visit, the town’s independent, slightly bohemian energy is part of the appeal, and the people-watching from a cafe on the main street is half the fun.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Totnes from Paignton? The scenic way is the Round Robin — steam train, ferry and river cruise — or you can drive or take the mainline train in around 15 minutes.
What is Totnes known for? Its independent shops, creative and alternative spirit, Norman castle, Elizabethan buildings and thriving local-food scene.
Is Totnes worth visiting? Yes — for its unique character, history, shopping and the beautiful River Dart, it is one of Devon’s most rewarding towns.
Can you get a boat to Totnes? Yes — river cruises run up the Dart from Dartmouth to Totnes. Sailings are tidal, so check the timetable.
An easy and rewarding day out
Whether you go for the shops, the history, the food or simply the unique atmosphere, Totnes makes a rewarding contrast to days on the beach. And the journey there — especially by steam train and river boat — is half the pleasure. From a base in Paignton it is wonderfully accessible, whether you choose to drive or take the scenic route. Cranmore Lodge, with its free off-road parking and the steam railway nearby, makes the perfect launchpad for a day exploring Totnes and the Dart valley. Discover more on our area guide.
Stay at Cranmore Lodge, Paignton
Explore Totnes, the River Dart and the South Hams from a comfortable, well-placed base in Paignton. View our apartments or check availability and book online.
To enquire, call +44 (0)1803 556278 or email enquiries@cranmorelodge.co.uk. Cranmore Lodge Holiday Apartments, 45 Marine Drive, Paignton TQ3 2NS.