Tucked into a fold of the wooded hills above the River Dart, just a short journey from Paignton, lies one of the most atmospheric houses in all of Devon: Greenway, the much-loved holiday home of the world’s best-selling novelist, Agatha Christie. Cared for today by the National Trust, Greenway offers a rare and intimate glimpse into the private life of the Queen of Crime, surrounded by gardens that the writer adored. For anyone holidaying in Torbay, it makes an unforgettable day out.
Agatha Christie’s “loveliest place in the world”
Agatha Christie was born in Torquay, just across the bay, and remained devoted to South Devon throughout her life. She bought Greenway in 1938 as a summer retreat, and it became the place where she and her family gathered to relax, play and entertain. She described it as the loveliest place in the world, and it is easy to see why. The house is filled not with the trappings of a literary shrine but with the comfortable clutter of a real family holiday home — books, collections, archaeology finds, china and games — exactly as it was left.
Walking through the rooms, you get a powerful sense of the woman behind the famous novels. This was where she came to escape the public eye, to swim in the river, to read and to enjoy the company of family and friends. Although she did not write here — Greenway was firmly a place of rest — the estate and the surrounding landscape clearly fed her imagination, and fans will recognise echoes of the area in several of her stories.
The gardens and the woodland walks
For many visitors the gardens are the real glory of Greenway. They spill down the hillside towards the river in a series of romantic, semi-wild plantings, with winding paths leading through woodland, past a walled garden, a vinery, a peach house and the famous boathouse on the water’s edge. In spring the gardens are ablaze with magnolias, camellias and rhododendrons; in summer they are lush and green; and in autumn they take on rich, mellow tones. The microclimate of the Dart valley allows tender and exotic species to flourish, giving the gardens a lush, almost sub-tropical feel in places.
Be prepared for slopes and steps — the gardens are set on a hillside — and wear sturdy, comfortable footwear. The reward is a series of beautiful views over the river and a real sense of peace.
Arriving by river: the most magical approach
While you can drive to Greenway, the most memorable way to arrive is by boat along the River Dart. River cruises run up from Dartmouth and Totnes, and arriving at the Greenway boathouse and climbing up through the gardens to the house is an experience in itself — just as many of Christie’s own guests would have arrived. This also fits beautifully into the famous Round Robin trip combining the steam railway, ferry and river cruise, so you can weave a visit to Greenway into a wider day of exploration. Do check sailing times and booking requirements in advance, as the river services are tidal and Greenway operates timed entry.
Practical tips for visiting
Greenway is a National Trust property, so members enjoy free entry while others pay an admission charge. Because parking on site is limited, the Trust asks drivers to book a parking space in advance — this is well worth knowing before you set off. Arriving by boat, bicycle, on foot via the coast path, or on the steam train to nearby Churston (then a walk or shuttle) are all encouraged alternatives. There is a cafe serving light lunches and the inevitable, and very welcome, cream tea, plus a shop. Allow at least half a day to do the house and gardens justice; many visitors happily spend longer.
Who will enjoy Greenway?
Greenway has wide appeal. Agatha Christie fans will be in their element, but you do not need to have read a single novel to be charmed by the house and grounds. Garden lovers adore the plantings and the river views; walkers enjoy the woodland paths and the coast path that runs nearby; and families find plenty to explore, from the boathouse to the wider grounds. It is a gentler, more contemplative day out than a theme park or a busy beach, and all the more rewarding for it.
Combining Greenway with the rest of your trip
Because Greenway sits between Paignton and Dartmouth, it slots neatly into a wider exploration of the Dart valley. You might combine it with a wander around Dartmouth, a stop in Totnes, or the full Round Robin circuit. Alternatively, make it the centrepiece of a quieter day, with a riverside lunch and an unhurried stroll through the gardens. Either way, it offers a wonderful contrast to days spent on the beach.
The boathouse and the river
One of the most evocative spots at Greenway is the boathouse down on the water’s edge, with its little plunge pool and its windows looking out over the Dart. It is a place that featured in Christie’s imagination and appears, lightly disguised, in her fiction — fans of Dead Man’s Folly in particular will find the setting familiar. Standing here, watching the boats drift by on the river below the wooded gardens, it is easy to understand why the writer loved Greenway so deeply and returned to it summer after summer. The walk down through the gardens to the boathouse, and back up again, is one of the highlights of any visit.
The collections in the house
Agatha Christie and her husband, the archaeologist Max Mallowan, were enthusiastic collectors, and the house is full of the things they gathered over a lifetime: archaeology, fine china, silver, books and curiosities, displayed much as the family left them. Rather than a formal museum, Greenway feels like a home where the family has just stepped out, which gives it a warmth and intimacy that many grander houses lack. The rooms tell the story not just of a famous author but of a close family at their holiday ease, and the volunteers on hand are full of stories and insight.
Best time to visit Greenway
Greenway is lovely throughout the open season, but each time of year has its own character. Spring brings magnolias, camellias and rhododendrons in glorious bloom; summer is lush and green, with the river at its most inviting; and autumn turns the gardens to rich, mellow colour. The gardens are generally open more of the year than the house, so check current opening times before you travel. Quieter weekdays and earlier in the day tend to be the most peaceful, and arriving by boat or steam train adds to the sense of occasion whatever the season.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to book to visit Greenway? Parking on site is limited and must usually be booked in advance, so it is best to plan ahead. Arriving by boat, bike, on foot or by steam train avoids the parking issue altogether.
Is Greenway free for National Trust members? Yes, National Trust members enjoy free entry; non-members pay an admission charge.
How do I get there by boat? River cruises run to the Greenway boathouse from Dartmouth and Totnes, and it fits beautifully into the Round Robin trip. Services are tidal, so check times in advance.
Is it suitable for children? Yes — children enjoy the woodland paths, the boathouse and the grounds, though the gardens are hilly, so wear good footwear.
A perfect base for exploring the Dart valley
Staying in Paignton puts Greenway and the whole of the beautiful Dart valley within easy reach, whether you travel by car, by boat or by steam train. Cranmore Lodge, opposite Preston Sands, makes a comfortable and convenient base, with free off-road parking for the days you choose to drive and the steam railway just a short trip away for the days you would rather let the train take the strain. After a day among the gardens and the river, there is nothing nicer than returning to a sea view and a relaxing evening. Find more inspiration on our area guide.
Stay at Cranmore Lodge, Paignton
Let Cranmore Lodge be your base for exploring Agatha Christie’s Devon and the lovely River Dart. View our apartments or check availability and book online.
To arrange your stay, call +44 (0)1803 556278 or email enquiries@cranmorelodge.co.uk. Cranmore Lodge Holiday Apartments, 45 Marine Drive, Paignton TQ3 2NS.