One of the great pleasures of a holiday in Torbay is that you are never far from a complete change of scene. Leave the beaches behind, drive inland for less than an hour, and you find yourself in a landscape utterly different from the genteel coast: the wild, ancient, windswept expanse of Dartmoor. With its open moorland, granite tors, tumbling rivers, ponies and prehistoric remains, Dartmoor National Park is one of the most atmospheric corners of England, and it makes an unforgettable day trip from Paignton. Here is how to enjoy it.
A landscape like no other
Dartmoor covers some 368 square miles of upland in the heart of Devon, a sweeping mosaic of heather moorland, granite outcrops, ancient woodland and deep wooded valleys. It is a place of huge skies and big weather, where shaggy Dartmoor ponies graze freely, buzzards wheel overhead and the remains of Bronze Age settlements lie scattered across the hills. After the bustle of the seaside, the sheer space and silence of the moor can feel like balm for the soul.
Climbing a tor
The granite tors that crown Dartmoor’s hills are its signature feature, and climbing one is the classic Dartmoor experience. Many are surprisingly accessible: Haytor, one of the most famous, rises just a short walk from a roadside car park on the eastern moor — the side closest to Torbay — and rewards the modest climb with vast views back towards the coast. Families with young children can manage it easily, while the more adventurous can strike out across the open moor to quieter, wilder tors beyond. Always check the weather first and take a map, as conditions on the high moor can change quickly.
Wooded valleys and riverside walks
Dartmoor is not all open moorland. Some of its loveliest spots are the deep, wooded valleys where rivers tumble over granite boulders beneath ancient oaks. Places like Becky Falls, with its woodland walks and waterfalls, and the National Trust’s Fingle Bridge and the River Teign offer gentler, shadier walks that are perfect on a warm day or with children. The contrast between the bare moorland tops and these lush, green valleys is one of the things that makes Dartmoor so endlessly varied.
Pretty towns and villages
Dotted around and across the moor are some delightful towns and villages. Widecombe-in-the-Moor, immortalised in the old folk song, sits in a green valley surrounded by hills, its grand church known as the “Cathedral of the Moor”. Bovey Tracey, on the eastern edge nearest Torbay, is a characterful little town with craft galleries and cafes, a good gateway to the moor. Further afield, Tavistock, Moretonhampstead and Princetown — home to the moor’s high-level visitor centre — each have their own appeal. Many have traditional pubs serving hearty food, perfect after a walk.
Wildlife and ponies
Dartmoor ponies are the animals most associated with the moor, and you will often see them grazing beside the roads and across the open hills. They are semi-wild, so admire them from a distance and never feed them. Beyond the ponies, the moor is home to buzzards, ravens, skylarks and, in the rivers and valleys, dippers and otters. Sheep and cattle graze the commons too, so drive carefully on the open moorland roads, where animals have right of way and may wander into the road.
History written in stone
Dartmoor holds one of the richest concentrations of prehistoric remains in Europe: stone rows, standing stones, burial cairns and the foundations of ancient hut circles where people lived thousands of years ago. Add medieval crosses, old tin-mining workings and the brooding presence of Dartmoor Prison at Princetown, and the moor becomes a vast open-air museum of human history. For older children and curious adults, seeking out these ancient sites adds a real sense of mystery to a day on the moor.
Practical tips for a Dartmoor day
The eastern side of the moor, around Haytor and Bovey Tracey, is closest to Torbay and easiest to reach, making it ideal for a day trip. Dress in layers and bring waterproofs whatever the forecast, as the weather can be very different on the high moor from the coast. Wear proper footwear, take water and snacks, and carry a map and compass (and know how to use them) if you plan to walk away from the main paths, as mobile signal is patchy and mist can descend quickly. Fill up with fuel before you head out, and enjoy a pub lunch in one of the moorland villages as part of the day.
Family-friendly Dartmoor attractions
Dartmoor is not all rugged hiking. There are several attractions that make a moorland day easy and fun with children. Woodland and wildlife parks, miniature railways and farm attractions around the edges of the moor give younger visitors plenty to enjoy, while gentle, well-marked trails at places like Haytor and the wooded valleys offer adventure without too much effort. The Dartmoor National Park visitor centres — including the high-moorland centre at Princetown — are great starting points, with maps, exhibitions and friendly advice to help you make the most of your day and choose a walk to suit your group.
Stargazing and dark skies
Away from the lights of the coast, Dartmoor offers some of the darkest skies in southern England, and on a clear night the stars are spectacular. If you are staying in the area in the cooler, darker months, an evening drive up to the moor for some stargazing can be magical — bring warm clothing, a flask and a torch, and let your eyes adjust to the dark. Even by day, the sense of space and the huge skies over the moor are a tonic after the bustle of the resort, and a reminder of just how varied a Devon holiday can be.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Dartmoor from Paignton? The eastern edge of the moor, around Haytor and Bovey Tracey, is less than an hour by car, making it an easy day trip.
What is the easiest tor to climb? Haytor, on the eastern moor closest to Torbay, is one of the most accessible, with a short climb from a roadside car park and superb views.
Can I see Dartmoor ponies? Yes — the semi-wild ponies graze freely across the moor and beside the roads. Admire them from a distance and never feed them.
What should I take to Dartmoor? Layers, waterproofs, good footwear, water, snacks and a map. The weather can change quickly and mobile signal is patchy.
The best of both worlds
The beauty of basing yourself in Paignton is that you can enjoy the coast and the moor on the same holiday — a morning on the beach and an afternoon among the tors, or a full day on Dartmoor followed by a relaxing evening back beside the sea. Cranmore Lodge, with its free off-road parking, makes the perfect launchpad: load up the car, drive out to the moor, and return to your sea-view apartment to put your feet up. Discover more on our area guide.
Stay at Cranmore Lodge, Paignton
Enjoy the rare combination of beach and moorland from a single base. View our apartments or check availability and book online.
To enquire, call +44 (0)1803 556278 or email enquiries@cranmorelodge.co.uk. Cranmore Lodge Holiday Apartments, 45 Marine Drive, Paignton TQ3 2NS.