Just along the coast from Torbay, where the River Dart meets the sea, lies one of the most beautiful towns in the whole of England. Dartmouth is a historic port of narrow streets, Tudor and Georgian houses, a proud naval heritage and a setting that takes the breath away — a deep, wooded river valley dotted with boats and guarded by a medieval castle. From Paignton it makes a superb day out, and the journey there is half the pleasure. Here is your guide to Dartmouth and the lovely River Dart.
A town steeped in history
Dartmouth has been an important port for well over a thousand years, sending ships off on the Crusades, on voyages of exploration and, more recently, as a key embarkation point for the D-Day landings. That long history is written into the fabric of the town. The narrow streets climbing up from the embankment are lined with beautifully preserved buildings, including the ornate Tudor merchants’ houses of the Butterwalk. The town is home to the Britannia Royal Naval College, where officers of the Royal Navy have trained for generations, its grand buildings looking down over the river.
Dartmouth Castle
Guarding the mouth of the river is Dartmouth Castle, a wonderfully situated fortress that has defended the harbour for more than 600 years. Perched right at the water’s edge, it is one of the most picturesquely located castles in the country, and exploring its gun towers and battlements while ships pass close by below is a real treat. In summer you can reach the castle by a little ferry from the town, which only adds to the sense of occasion.
The embankment and the harbour
The heart of Dartmouth is its waterfront, a lively embankment lined with cafes, pubs and benches where you can sit and watch the constant comings and goings on the river: yachts, pleasure boats, the higher and lower ferries shuttling across to Kingswear, and the occasional naval vessel. The boat float, a small inner harbour, sits right in the middle of town. It is a place that simply invites you to slow down, with an ice cream or a coffee, and watch the world drift by on the water.
Exploring the shops and eating out
Dartmouth punches well above its weight when it comes to food and shopping. The streets are full of independent shops, art galleries, delicatessens and boutiques, and the town has built a reputation as something of a foodie destination, with everything from harbourside fish restaurants to cosy cafes and award-winning eateries. Whether you want a simple crab sandwich by the water or a memorable dinner, you will be well looked after.
Boat trips on the River Dart
To see Dartmouth and the Dart at their best, get out on the water. River cruises run up the estuary towards Totnes, winding between steep wooded banks, past Greenway — Agatha Christie’s holiday home — grand riverside houses and abundant birdlife. The commentary points out the landmarks and tells the river’s stories along the way. There are also coastal cruises out towards the open sea, and pleasure trips of all kinds. Because the river is tidal, sailing times vary from day to day, so check the timetable when you arrive.
The most scenic way to arrive
Half the joy of Dartmouth lies in getting there. The most celebrated route from Paignton is the famous Round Robin: take the steam railway along the coast to Kingswear, cross to Dartmouth by ferry, cruise up the river to Totnes, and return by bus — a glorious day combining steam, sea, river and road. Alternatively you can drive (using one of the car ferries across the Dart), or take a more direct coastal cruise in season. However you come, the first sight of the town rising from the water never fails to impress.
Quieter corners and walks
Beyond the busy embankment, Dartmouth rewards exploration on foot. Climb the streets and steps up the hillside for wonderful views over the rooftops and the river. Walk out to the castle along the coastal path, or cross to Kingswear and wander its steep, flower-decked lanes. For a complete escape, the surrounding countryside and the coast path offer beautiful, peaceful walking with the Dart estuary as a constant, lovely companion.
Kingswear, across the water
Facing Dartmouth across the river is the village of Kingswear, the terminus of the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway and a charming place in its own right. Its steep streets of colour-washed cottages tumble down to the water, and a short ferry hop links it to Dartmouth in minutes. Many visitors arrive here by steam train, cross to Dartmouth for the day, and return the same way — a wonderfully scenic round trip. Kingswear also gives access to lovely stretches of the coast path and to the woodland and gardens of the surrounding estates, making it well worth a wander rather than just a stepping stone.
Dartmouth Royal Regatta and events
Dartmouth has a busy calendar of events that bring the town and river to life. The famous Dartmouth Royal Regatta in late summer is a highlight, with sailing and rowing races, a funfair, air displays and fireworks over the water, drawing crowds from far and wide. The town also hosts a renowned food festival celebrating the superb produce and seafood of the region. If your visit coincides with one of these events, it adds real sparkle to a day out; if you prefer things quieter, the town is just as lovely on an ordinary day, with the constant gentle theatre of boats on the river.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Dartmouth from Paignton? The classic route is the Round Robin — steam train to Kingswear, then ferry across — or you can drive (using a car ferry across the Dart) or take a coastal cruise in season.
What is there to do in Dartmouth? Explore Dartmouth Castle, the historic streets and embankment, take a river cruise, enjoy the excellent food, and browse the independent shops and galleries.
Can you take a boat up the River Dart? Yes — river cruises run from Dartmouth up to Totnes, passing Greenway and beautiful wooded scenery. Sailings are tidal, so check times.
Is Dartmouth worth visiting with children? Yes — the castle, the ferries and boat trips, and the waterfront all appeal to families.
Make Dartmouth part of your holiday
Dartmouth and the Dart valley offer a wonderful contrast to days on the beach — history, scenery, good food and the gentle pleasure of life on the water. Staying in Paignton puts it all within easy reach, whether you travel by steam train and boat or by car. Cranmore Lodge, opposite Preston Sands, makes a comfortable base, with free off-road parking for driving days and the steam railway nearby for the classic Round Robin. After a day on the river, a sea view and a relaxing evening await. Find more ideas on our area guide.
Stay at Cranmore Lodge, Paignton
Let Cranmore Lodge be your base for exploring Dartmouth and the beautiful River Dart. View our apartments or check availability and book online.
To enquire, call +44 (0)1803 556278 or email enquiries@cranmorelodge.co.uk. Cranmore Lodge Holiday Apartments, 45 Marine Drive, Paignton TQ3 2NS.