Some experiences capture the romance of a Devon holiday more than others, and riding a real steam train along the edge of the sea is near the top of the list. The Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway has been delighting visitors for decades, and from a base in Paignton it could hardly be more convenient. This guide explains what to expect from the railway itself, and how to combine it with a ferry and a river cruise for the celebrated “Round Robin” — arguably the single best day out in South Devon.
A nostalgic journey along the coast
The Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway runs for around seven miles from Paignton to Kingswear, on the western bank of the River Dart. The line was originally part of the Great Western Railway, and today it is operated as a heritage railway using beautifully restored steam locomotives and traditional carriages. From the moment the whistle blows and the engine eases out of the station, there is a sense of stepping back into a more leisurely age of travel — the smell of coal smoke, the rhythmic chuff of the engine and the gentle sway of the carriages.
The route is genuinely spectacular. Soon after leaving Paignton the line hugs the coast at Goodrington, with sweeping views over the sands and the bay, before plunging into woodland and running high above the Dart estuary. You pass through Churston and then descend towards Kingswear, where the river opens out in a glorious panorama of boats, wooded hills and the pastel houses of Dartmouth across the water. Children press their noses to the windows; adults find themselves just as captivated.
The starting point in Paignton
The railway’s Paignton station sits right beside the main line railway station in the town centre, which makes it remarkably easy to reach. If you are staying nearby you can leave the car behind entirely — walk or take a short bus ride into town, and step straight from the platform onto a steam train. Arriving by mainline train from Exeter, Bristol or London, you simply walk a few steps from one station to the other.
The famous Round Robin trip
While a return trip on the steam train is a lovely outing in its own right, the real magic lies in the Round Robin, a circular journey that strings together four different modes of transport into one unforgettable day. The classic version works like this: take the steam train from Paignton to Kingswear; cross the River Dart by passenger ferry to Dartmouth; board a river boat for a cruise up the beautiful, wooded Dart estuary to the historic town of Totnes; and finally catch a bus back to Paignton. By the end of the day you have travelled by steam, sea, river and road, and seen a remarkable cross-section of South Devon scenery and history.
One of the best things about the Round Robin is its flexibility. You can start at any point on the circle and travel in either direction, and you can linger as long as you like at any of the stops. That means you can tailor the day to suit your group: a leisurely lunch in Dartmouth, an hour browsing the quirky shops of Totnes, or a longer stop to explore Kingswear and the riverside. Tickets for the combined trip can be bought as a single package, which is both convenient and good value.
Stop one: Kingswear and the ferry
Kingswear is a picture-postcard village of steep streets and colour-washed cottages tumbling down to the water. From the railway terminus it is a short step to the ferry, and the crossing of the Dart is a delight — just a few minutes on the water, with yachts and pleasure boats all around and the spire and rooftops of Dartmouth growing ahead of you.
Stop two: Dartmouth
Dartmouth is one of the most beautiful towns in Devon, a historic port with a proud naval heritage, narrow streets of Tudor and Georgian buildings, an embankment lined with cafes and a castle guarding the river mouth. It is a wonderful place to wander, with independent shops, art galleries and some excellent places to eat. Many visitors choose to break their journey here for lunch or a longer explore before continuing up the river.
Stop three: the river cruise to Totnes
The boat trip up the Dart from Dartmouth to Totnes is, for many, the highlight of the whole day. The river winds between steeply wooded banks, past Greenway — Agatha Christie’s holiday home — grand riverside houses, anchored boats and abundant birdlife. The commentary on board points out the landmarks and tells the stories of the river. As the Dart narrows towards Totnes the scenery becomes ever more intimate and lovely. Note that the river cruise is tidal, so sailing times vary day to day; the operators arrange the Round Robin timings around this.
Stop four: Totnes and the journey home
Totnes is one of Devon’s most characterful towns, famous for its independent spirit, its Norman castle, its Elizabethan buildings and a main street full of unusual shops, galleries and cafes. There is time to stretch your legs, browse and perhaps enjoy a Devon cream tea before catching the bus back to Paignton, which completes the circle and returns you to the coast.
Tips for a great day out
Wear comfortable shoes, as there is some walking between connections and around the towns. Check the day’s sailing times when you buy your tickets, since the river cruise depends on the tide. Take a light waterproof even on a fine day — you are on and beside the water for much of it. And do not rush: the beauty of the Round Robin is that you can take it at your own pace. With young children, you might prefer to do just the steam train and ferry and save the full circle for another year.
A little history of the line
The railway between Paignton and Kingswear opened in 1864, built by the South Devon Railway and later absorbed into the famous Great Western Railway, whose distinctive locomotives and chocolate-and-cream carriages became part of the romance of travel to the West Country. When mainline services to Kingswear ended in the 1970s, the line was saved and reborn as a heritage railway, lovingly maintained by a dedicated team and run with the steam engines and traditional rolling stock that make it so special today. Riding it is not just a scenic journey but a living piece of railway history, and part of the same network of branch lines that helped turn Torbay into the holiday destination it became.
Seasonal services and special events
The railway runs throughout much of the year, with the fullest timetable in the summer season, and it puts on a wonderful programme of special events. Around Christmas, festive services and Santa specials are hugely popular with families, and there are often other themed events and dining trains through the year. Because the timetable and the special events vary by season, it is always worth checking the latest schedule when planning your trip, and booking ahead for the most popular dates. Dining and first-class options are sometimes available too, turning the journey into a real occasion.
Making the most of the trip
For the best views, try to sit on the seaward side of the carriage on the way out — the stretch along Goodrington and above the Dart estuary is breathtaking. Arrive in good time to soak up the atmosphere of the station, watch the engine being prepared and perhaps chat to the volunteers who keep the line running. If you are doing the full Round Robin, wear comfortable shoes and check the tidal river-cruise times when you buy your tickets. And take a camera: the combination of steam, sea and the wooded river valley provides photo opportunities at almost every turn.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the steam train take? The journey from Paignton to Kingswear takes around half an hour each way, with wonderful views throughout.
What is the Round Robin? A circular trip combining the steam train to Kingswear, ferry to Dartmouth, river cruise to Totnes and bus back to Paignton — you can start anywhere and travel in either direction.
Is it suitable for young children? Absolutely. Children love the steam train, and you can do just the train and ferry if the full circle is too long for little ones.
Do I need to book? Booking ahead is wise, especially in peak season and for special events like the Christmas services. Check the railway’s current timetable before you travel.
An easy day out from Paignton
Because the steam railway begins in the centre of Paignton, the whole adventure is wonderfully easy to reach when you are staying nearby. From Cranmore Lodge it is a short journey into town to pick up the train, and you can leave your car safely in our off-road car park while you spend the day travelling by steam, ferry, river and bus. It is the kind of day that families and couples remember long after the holiday ends. For more ideas on exploring the area, see our guide to the area.
Stay at Cranmore Lodge, Paignton
Make the steam railway and the Round Robin the centrepiece of a relaxed holiday on the English Riviera, with Cranmore Lodge as your comfortable, well-placed base. View our apartments or check availability and book online.
To plan your stay, call +44 (0)1803 556278 or email enquiries@cranmorelodge.co.uk. Cranmore Lodge Holiday Apartments, 45 Marine Drive, Paignton TQ3 2NS.